EYE Q&A

EYE SHADOW APPLICATIONS

HOW DO YOU CHOOSE A BASE COLOR AND WHY??
The purpose of this color is to add highlights to the brow bone and the lid - the two areas that "catch light." However, this color also does more. It acts like a foundation - to smooth and add a good finish. Eye shadows that are slightly lighter than your skin tone will look the most believable, and there are plenty to choose from. Experiment with many, especially if your used to just choosing an off-white one.

AFTER CHOOSING MY BASE COLOR, WHAT COLOR WOULD I USE NEXT?
After the base color, you'll want to choose a contour color. It should be dark enough to look like a shadow - noticeable, not obvious. For a natural look, choose colors such as brown, taupe, beige and off-whites.

HOW DO YOU DEFINE THE LOOK?
After the base color, you'll want to choose a contour color. It should be dark enough to look like a shadow - noticeable, not obvious. For a natural look, choose colors such as brown, taupe, beige and off-whites.

HOW DO I GET A SMOKEY NEUTRAL EFFECT?
Use smoky, neutral shades such as slate, charcoal gray, and off-whites such as moonstone.

HOW DO YOU APPLY SHADOWS WET?
For smooth application of wet eye shadow, dampen the brush, mix with the shadow and brush on color as desired. The wetter the brush, the softer the effect. After applying each shade, blend well using a blending brush. This same procedure works especially well when you apply shadow wet as an eyeliner. Follow the same procedures using an eyeliner brush.

HOW DO YOU DECIDE ON THE LOOK THAT BEST FITS YOUR EYES?
There are two things to consider as far as your eyes are concerned. One is their placement, and the other has to do with the eyelids themselves. Evaluate your eyes from both perspectives. Then decide which, if either, characteristic predominates. Certain eye makeup techniques will draw attention to the placement of your eyes, while others will minimize it. It all depends on how you want to look. The second thing you need to consider is your eyelid. Since that's where most of the color goes, it's really a question of how much or how little of your eyelid shows when your eyes are open. Prominent, or very noticeable, lids are the extreme on one end of the spectrum; hooded (or hidden) lids, on the other end.

AVERAGE EYES
They are the width of one eye apart. The lids are well proportioned; the distance between the lash line and crease just above the pupil is about one-third the distance between the lash line and brow. If your eyes fit this description, you have all sorts of flexibility.

WIDE SET EYES
They are more than the width of an eye apart. This characteristic is fairly easy to spot, but if you want to be sure, measure the space between your tear ducts. If it's more than 3cm, your eyes are wide set.

CLOSE SET EYES
These eyes are less than the width of one eye apart.

DEEP SET EYES
These eyes have a recessed appearance - there's a fairly noticeable shadow, or pocket, on the inside corners of your eyes or a recess below the brow bone.

PROMINENT LIDS
These are very noticeable. When the eyes themselves protrude, the lids can take an almost heavy appearance. Prominent eyelids are also characteristic of some deep set eyes.

HOODED LIDS
These are ones where the skin from above the crease droops over the crease and hides the eyelid.

ORIENTAL EYES
These eyes appear as though they have little or no eyelids - at least not when the eyes are open. The brow bone also tends to be flat, giving this area extra prominence.

GLAMOUR LOOK FOR MEDIUM TONED - AUBURN HAIR WITH BLUE EYES
Try a brown blush with a touch of red; Use the Sante Terra Trio eye shadows; Define the eyes with Sante Spice eyeliner; Line your lips with Sante Brown lip liner; Apply a brown lipstick such as Real Purity® Golden Bronze, Sante Shiny Brown or Honeybee Mocha Latte; Finally, finish the look off with a nail polish in the color of Sante Brown.

GLAMOUR LOOK FOR DARK SKIN TONE - DARK HAIR COLOR AND BROWN EYES
Try a blush like Real Purity® Golden Pink; Eye Colors such as Real Purity® Icy Rose and Navy Duo, and Charcoal; Define the eyes with a navy colored eyeliner or choose a shadow like Real Purity® Lilac; Apply mascara in black; Line your lips with Sante Intensive Red; Use a lipstick color like Sante Rose or Shiny Red.

I WEAR GLASSES FULL TIME, HOW DO I USE EYE MAKEUP?
If your glasses come down over your cheekbones, try adding a thicker line to your lashes and try 2 coats of mascara, not one. That should help balance it out.

EYE LINER USES AND TIPS

I HAVE A HARD TIME WORKING WITH EYE LINER PENCILS. IS THERE ANOTHER WAY I CAN ACHIEVE THE SAME EFFECT?
Sure. I often tell my clients that you can add color and definition to eyes by using an eye shadow as a liner. You can dampen a small, flat eye shadow applicator, dip it into the product or swipe it over it, then brush it on in short, feathery strokes as close to the lash line as possible. You can also do the same thing using it dry. You can soften the look with a cotton swab or blending brush. The more water you use however, the softer the look. I like using Earths Beauty for this.

HOW DO I AVOID RACCOON EYES?
Use a light touch when combining light eye makeup colors with darker ones, and always blend.

HOW DO I AVOID A THICK EYE LINE OR IS THIS OKAY?
Very few can get away with a thick line. When lining and defining, stay as close to your lash line as possible, and then be sure to soften the line. You can use a sponge tip applicator or cotton swab to help. Don't press to firmly as you line. Sharpen the pencil if you think it needs it, to get close up.

MASCARA USES AND TIPS

TIPS FOR APPLYING MASCARA
Don't hold the wand stationary when applying mascara. Instead, roll it along your lashes from the roots to the tips, to deposit the mascara evenly and help prevent clumping. To remove smudges, wind a piece of tissue tightly and hold it under your lower lashes while applying your mascara. Or you can use a cotton swab dipped in eye makeup remover to remove smudges. To stretch your mascara out and prevent drying, don't dip the mascara wand unnecessarily into the tube. You also want to avoid pumping the wand; instead, always twist to coat. Remove mascara and all other eye makeup before going to bed. Use your eye makeup remover, gently massage a small amount over your lid and lashes. Wait about 30 seconds, then gently whisk off eye makeup using a cotton ball. If using our liquid makeup remover, apply it with a cotton ball. For extra lush-looking lashes, apply two coats of mascara. Use an eyelash comb to separate lashes after each coat.

HOW DO I STOP MY LASHES FROM CLUMPING WHEN I USE MASCARA?
Use a fine-toothed eyelash comb to separate lashes before your mascara has a chance to dry.

CAN YOU USE MORE THAN ONE COLOR OF MASCARA AT A TIME?
Sure! Sometimes when I want to make my lashes appear longer, I'll use a brown/sable color first, then tip the lashes with black. 

REFERENCES:

Beauty Advice Came from the following books: Inside Beauty, Articles from Magazines